Myanmar - Ancient Civilisations are always Complicated

Read this blog at your own peril... it is a history lesson... I think it's great... odds are, you'll find it resembling a high-school textbook.

Joye and I are recovering from minor health issues... so our adventuring around Yangon has been at a sedate pace. Today's outing has been limited to a visit to the National Museum... where we attempted to cover Myanmar History 101. There is a lot to cover... staring with prehistoric bones that have yet to be finally dated... but are pointing to humanoids living in the area over a million years ago. Java Man and Peking Man were around in the very early days... but the Myanmar archaeologists are confident that their find will pre-date these finds.

But history of homosapians is complicated by the usual dimensions of race, ethnic groups, waves of invasions and the British.

The earliest archaeological evidence suggests that cultures existed in Burma as early as 11,000 BC. In what looks like remarkable symmetry, Burma's Stone Age existed at a time that parallels the lower and middle Paleolithic experience in Europe. No one bought civilisation to Myanmar... they invented their own. About 1500 BC, people in the region were turning copper into bronze, growing rice, and domesticating chickens and pigs; they were among the first people in the world to do so. By 500 BC, iron-working settlements emerged in an area south of present-day Mandalay. Bronze-decorated coffins and burial sites filled with earthenware remains have been excavated. Archaeological evidence at Samon Valley south of Mandalay suggests rice growing settlements that traded with China between 500 BC and 200 AD. We are taught that the fertile triangle of Persia is the home of Palaeolithic civilisation... perhaps, Myanmar could mount a competing claim.

History really got going when the Tibeto-Burman-speaking Pyu entered the Irrawaddy valley, in the 2nd century BC, and went on to found city states. The Pyu were the earliest inhabitants of Burma for whom records are extensive. During this period, Burma was part of an overland trade route from China to India. Trade with India brought Buddhism from southern India. By the 4th century, many in the Irrawaddy valley had converted to Buddhism. In March 638, the Pyu of Sri Ksetra launched a new calendar that later became the Burmese calendar.

Pya had a long-lasting civilization extending over nearly a millennium to early 9th century until a new group of "swift horsemen" from the north, the Mranma, (Burmans) entered the upper Irrawaddy valley. How many times have horses interrupted the course of human history!

The Pyu gradually were absorbed into the expanding Burman kingdom of Pagan in the next four centuries. The Pyu language still existed until the late 12th century. By the 13th century, the Pyu had assumed the Burman ethnicity. The histories/legends of the Pyu were also incorporated into those of the Burmans.

As early as 6th century, another people called the Mon began to enter the present-day Lower Burma from modern-day Thailand. By the mid 9th century, the Mon had founded at least two small kingdoms (or large city-states) centered around Pegu and Thaton. The kingdoms prospered from trade. The Kingdom of Thaton is widely considered to be the fabled kingdom of Suvarnabhumi (or Golden Land), referred to by the tradesmen of the Indian Ocean.

During the hundred years up to 1750, warring between princely states had Myanmar running around in circles... a bit like the dark-ages in Europe. Perhaps, this time, we cannot blame the little ice age for the misery Myanmar tribes inflicted on each other. From 1750, the Burmese tribes gained the ascendancy... successfully took on Thailand territory... and had a go at China. While the Burmese tribes were busy with their international adventures, the Mon tribes re-established their control over historic areas.

The advantage of lying on an important trade route is that you can generate wealth... the disadvantage is that you are continually the target for invasion and plunder. Myanmar has accumulated 17 ethnic groups that currently make up the nation... some groups have historians still scratching their heads wondering where they came from. The number of wars fought per hectare... on Myanmar soil... probably rates a place in the Guinness Book of Records. Everyone has had a go... even the Australians in an indirect way... courtesy of being prisoner of war inmates in Japanese railway building gangs.

The British added some stability to the war fields. They assumed control in 1886... although hostilities continued until 1890. The Suez Canal had been opened... and the demand for Burmese rice increased rapidly. Vast tracts of land were opened up for cultivation. However, in order to prepare the new land for cultivation, farmers were forced to borrow money from Indian moneylenders called chettiars at high interest rates and were often foreclosed on and evicted, losing land and livestock.

Most of the jobs also went to indentured Indian labourers, and whole villages became outlawed as they resorted to 'dacoity' (armed robbery). While the Burmese economy grew, all the power and wealth remained in the hands of several British firms, Anglo-Burmese and migrants from India. The civil service was largely staffed by the Anglo-Burmese community and Indians, and Burmese were excluded almost entirely from military service. Though the country prospered, the Burmese people failed to reap the rewards. (See George Orwell's novel Burmese Days for a fictional account of the British in Burma.) Throughout colonial rule through to the mid-1960s, the Anglo-Burmese were to dominate the country, causing discontent among the local populace.

The status of Burma during WWII is a complete book on its own. The Japanese manipulated Burmese politicians with promises of independence from Britain. After the war, on 27 January 1947, Aung San and the British Prime Minister Clement Attlee signed an agreement in London guaranteeing Burma's independence within a year.

A general election was held in April 1947. On 19 July 1947, a gang of armed paramilitaries broke into the Secretariat Building in downtown Rangoon and assassinated Aung San and six of his cabinet ministers.

Many mysteries still surround the assassination. There were rumours of a conspiracy involving the British—a variation on this theory was given new life in an influential, but sensationalist, documentary broadcast by the BBC on the 50th anniversary of the assassination in 1997.

Myanmar has earned is nationhood the hard way over milleniums of struggle. Australia freed itself from British domination with relative ease compared with all that Myanmar had to endure.

Myanmar - What's it Like

Do you want to know what the nation of Myanmar is like... that's the old Burma for those of us still living under the British Empire.

Well, it's nothing like you thought it would be.

You probably thought that since the coup d'état imposed military rule in 1962... there would be police informants hiding behind every bush... police and military swaggering down every street... indiscriminating detention faced on each corner. Joye and I are naive in such matters... we could see none of it. We saw citizens confidently going about their daily business... looking relaxed... looking well-fed... being courteous and energetic. I have no doubt that Myanmar citizens crave greater individual freedoms... all I'm saying is that today, they didn't look angry or fed-up.

You probably thought that a country with a GDP per capital of just $1,000 would have beggars on the street... children in rags... hunger driving desperate behaviour. I have to admit to being completely mysterfied by what we saw on the street. $1, 000 per annum is $2.75 per day. All the people we saw on the street looked like they had a comfortable night's sleep... had washed and groomed themselves... dressed in clean clothes... and satisfied any hunger pains. You can't do that on $2.75 per day. Perhaps the capital Yangon is treated as a privileged area... and real poverty lies outside the capital. We'll see.

Yangon is clean... very clean... without an observable team of street cleaners. We did not see citizens dropping waste paper or plastic on the street... very little spitting. We have seen no stay dogs, cats, pigs, cattle or water buffalo. We did see some street vendors with pet roosters each participating in a perpetual cock-a-doodle-do knockout... bringing some rural noises to downtown alleyways.

The traffic is quite different compared to India. Motorbikes are forbidden from Yangon... leaving automobiles to drive in accordance with strict road rules. Public transport is extensive... provided by utility vehicles with bench seating in the tray to seat a dozen or so commuters. Even bicycles are absent... although there are still a few on the roads.

One day (in recent history) the government decided that cars should change from driving on the left-hand side of the road... to the right. There are some vehicles with steering wheels on the left side... but the majority of vehicles have their steering wheel on the right side. Initially, we thought that taxis were expensive... it cost kt4,500 to get a ride downtown... even after adjusting for yesterday's inflation, that's still a big number. But the exchange rate is roughly kt1,000 for each $1...so you need to take a big pile of notes with you, everytime you step on the street.

I'm forming the opinion that the British did a far better job at colonial rule in Burma than it did in Delhi. Their colonial buildings are still being used today... streets are well laid out and street drainage is much more effective. Some of the colonial buildings have been let deteriorate... some are being renovated... but most are still being used.

You probably want some pictures and colour that are uniquely 'Yangonish'. Of course there are the Buddhist temples... golden domes shining in the tropical sun... but you expected that. How about the street vendors sitting with their manual typewriters... willing to fill in any government form that you may need. How about the street vendor next door with a photocopying machine that can duplicate the typed document you have just paid for... these street vendors think of everything. How about the fellow touting for business at the door of the government building... offering (at a price) to show you the right queue to join for you to present your form.

Street vendors often had 'line' phones booked up to their store. We have yet to figure out why a vendor offering a cup of tea would need two telephones on his table... perhaps it is a status thing. Feature mobile phone (the ones you are throwing away) are the hot items in street technology. The yuppies are around flashing their 'smart phones', but the up-and-coming cool guy will be standing idly on the street corner... smiling lovingly at his feature phone... Nokia ain't dead yet.

The markets here are civilised. The vendors do not harass potential purchasers. You are free to inspect and feel the goods without having to hear why the garment in your hand is much better than the one on display next door.

We meet with the seven other participants in our tour tomorrow night... when we will have the opportunity to ply countless questions to our tour leader... who can hopefully explain the riddle within the mystery that appears as the paradox of Yangon.

Incredible India - Way Ahead

Today is our last in India... we are staying in New Delhi... Connaught Place... one of the up-market shopping areas. Our travel agent chose this hotel... probably thinking we may need shelter from the 'real' India. Although we are enjoying the quietness and cleanliness of the hotel... we would prefer to be downtown in Old Delhi... with its heaving mass of humanity... spicy smells... vivid colours... and boundless energy.

Today, Connaught Place was the starting point for an anti-government protest... that had the permits required to march up the street to Parliament House. I think very few people turned up... no special police presence... the only excitement came from local ladies trying to find space on the suburban buses. (Given my experience with the Amalfi Coast scrums... I was tempted to offer advice to some ladies on how to improve their scrumming techniques... but thought better of it.)

As you know, India is the world's largest democracy... and undoubtedly the most complicated. Just to recall... there are 520 historic princely states that have significance in how people identify themselves... this is overplayed with the complexity of the old caste system... it's being replaced by the 'class' system. You have three or four major religions... the divisions within the one religion are usually more important than the differences between the major religions. Within one religion (Hindu) you have 3 million gods worshipped with a high degree of fanaticism. You have multiple languages... and the accents within any one language means people from different countries have difficulty communicating. Within each of the 26 official states, you will have up to 3 different scripts for writing. Fortunately, there is only one official currency... although at the tollway booths on the highways, we did see lollies being used as the preferred currency for small change. Anyone who claims to know India will acknowledge that it is impossible to know how it works... but it works... in a fashion... Indian style.

In Australia, when we spot something not quite right with our society we say, "Why doesn't the Government do something about fixing it?" We all think we could do a better job than 'that lot in Canberra'! I suspect none of us would want to be a politician in India... you'd be on a hiding to nothing. The fact that anything works is a miracle.. a mystery.

On our tour bus, we played a game... how would you spend $1 million to most benefit the community we were passing? There were lots of imaginative suggestions...

:-/ Kerbing and Guttering... feeding into reticulated water storage

:-/ Solar photo voltaic panels with batteries to replace wood burning

:-/ R&D into affordable stoves that require less fuel

:-/ Funding to complete abandoned civic projects

:-/ Better controls to catch those kids who are slipping through the government's excellent programs for child education

:-/ Housing projects buit under the elevated highways that by-pass a lot of villages

:-/ Investment in factories to compete with China in the component manufacturing export trade

Our guide listened patiently to all our suggestions....then pointed out that for every initiative there would be unexpected consequences... and in a democracy... government cannot ignore unexpected consequences.
It is tempting to conclude there is no use trying... the problem is just too complicated. Still, you can't help feeling that India is achieving a critical mass that will... quite soon... unlease growth comparable to the Chinese experience. China has achieved an early start by authoritarian rule... ignoring individual rights and smashing communities that represented the soul for most people living in those communities. Draconian! India has not chosen that path... it has chosen to remain a democracy... a much slower path to wealth.

So, you be the judge... should India sacrifice a generation to provide accelerated growth for younger generations?
My opinion... for what it is worth... its that India offers a unique insight into an alternative set of values that may... one day... prove vital to civilisations throughout the world... in living in a world with populations that stretch resources beyond the riches currently enjoyed in current Western civilisations.

Incredible India - Historic Perspective

Without the little ice age, India would have been a very different country.

Those of you following the climate change debate will be aware that Earth experienced a drop in temperatures during the period from the 16th to the 19th centuries. In Europe that bought a change in power... where the church was able to comfort a distressed community with explanations as to why life was so hard. It gave rise to the most northerly nations focusing their resources on military adventures to capture lands to the south... where food was more plentiful.

In India, similar dynamics were at work. Genghis Kahn had organised his conquests during a benign warm period... but with the little ice age, his descendants needed to make alternative arrangements. So it happened that Barbur... the founder of the Moghul Empire... left his cold starving homeland in Uzbekistan... swept through modern Afghanistan... and won some important battles, in what is now, Northern India. Because of traditions passed down from Ghengis Kahn, Barbur knew how to organise an army with superior mobility and tactics for fast and furious engagement of isolated forces. He entered India at a time when Princely States were in a constant state of struggle. Now, there are 28 states in India... but in Barbur's times there were 20 principalities within each state... for those of you who are mathematically challenged... that means 560 principalities. Barbur had no difficulty playing one principality off against the other. He had no problem establishing a foothold for his dynasty in Northern India.

Barbur was very smart... and established the custom of marrying into the major religious groups... as a means of 'currying' favour with the major population groups. Barbur was a Muslim... but made a Hindi wife his favourite. As well as a Muslim wife... he took a third wife from the Catholic faith... acknowledging the power of the East India Company in the Bombay region. This practice was continued by his descendants.

The Princely States refused to consolidate into an effective opposing force... so the biggest risks faced by the Moghul rulers was from Moghul relatives... palace intrigue... sons killing fathers... all of that exciting uncertainty.

Barbur delivered a successor (Humayum) who was a dud... at least at the beginning of his rule. He was overthrown by other family members... but managed to regain the throne to die in state... and have a marvellous Mausoleum constructed in Delhi... not that he deserved it. I only mention it because it is one of the 'must see' sites in Delhi.

The Moghuls were the Romans of India. They applied a demanding... but fair... taxation system on the agricultural based economy... and used the revenue to build magnificent courts and palaces. Unlike the Romans, they seem to have spent little effort in benefiting the people of low-birth. That is why the Romans remain the premier conquerors of all time... let's hear it for the Romans! Hip hip... Oh forget it.

Let's skip a couple of generation until we come to Shah Jehan (1627)... under him, Mughal art and architecture reached their zenith; constructed the Taj Mahal, Jama Masjid, Red Fort, Jahangir mausoleum, and Shalimar Gardens in Lahore. He was deposed by his son Aurangzeb.

While India was at the pinnacle of Moghuls sophistication... European peasants were not faring very well... famines, hypothermia, bread riots, and the rise of despotic leaders brutalizing an increasingly despirited peasantry. In the late seventeenth century, agriculture had dropped off so dramatically, "Alpine villagers lived on bread made from ground nutshells mixed with barley and oat flour."

Historian Wolfgang Behringer has linked intensive witch-hunting episodes in Europe to agricultural failures during the Little Ice Age. Epidemics added to the curse of the dark ages in Europe.

While the Moghuls were building an empire... down south, the East India Company was simply plundering... with a bit of rape and pillage thrown in to spice things up. Those of you wanting to defend British ethics can attempt to distinguish British actions from those of the East India Company behaviour. But, there is no doubt that Britain benefitted from the bad behaviour of the Company. Even when Britain took responsibility for Indian involvement... things did not improve greatly. We, in Australia, sometimes think we were poorly treated by our colonial matters. We got it pretty easy compared to what the Indians had to put up with.

Eventually, the Hindi forces organised themselves sufficiently to persuade the Moghuls to leave... which offered the British an ideal opportunity to take over... without too much messy military action. So started the saddest period of Indian history. While the Moghuls simplified Indian politics from 500 Princely states into 28 states.... British... perhaps inadvertently... consolidated India into one nation. That is to their credit. But the riches of Victorian Britian were funded to a very large extent... from the exploitation of India.

One final word on the Moghuls... they introduced Persian art and culture to India... they brought religious tolerance... they brought grandeur that showed India what it could become.
They did some good... probably more good than the British did in their 200 years of (attempted) rule.

Incredible India - Mogols were A Laugh a Minute

Indian mythology seems to focus on showing the frailties of the Mogols ... and showing how the serving classes were smarter than their rulers... the same is probably true today. Here are a couple of short stories told by guides over the last two weeks.

Who is who
The first story is short... and makes you think about primary responsibilities. The largest fort in Rajastan is Chittorgarh... surrounded by territory keenly contested by the Mogols and the ancient Indian rulers. This first story belongs in mythology... no dates... and the main characters were first cousins to the gods. The king died young... leaving an infant male heir to inherit the crown. A Head Council was appointed amongst the cousins of the late king to conduct kingly duties while the infant king reached maturity. The appointed Head liked the job so much, he decided to murder the infant king... to continue his period of power. His dastardly plot to murder the infant king became known to the nanny (of lowly birth) who was the wet nurse to the infant king. On the planned night of the murder, she substituted her own child for the infant king. The murderers assassinated the baby in the king's cradle
... well satisfied with their night's work. The murderers... including the Head Council... were arrested... the nanny was treated as a hero... and the true prince grew to become a long-lived successful king.

This story raises some interesting ethical points.

First, was the nanny telling the truth? Did she allow the real king to be killed so that her baby could become king? Even if the court knew the nanny to be lying, would the court support the false story... as the most convenient option to run with?

Second, should the Nanny be admired? Shouldn't her first responsibility be to the welfare of her own baby?

The Tragedy of Beauty
The second story is filled with plots and counterplots. My granddaughter may enjoy this story... but be warned... it does not have a happy ending.

The Queen of Chittorgarh (Padmini) was the most beautiful lady in the kingdom. The sultan of Delhi (Ala-ud-din) heard of Padmini's beauty... and besieged her Palace. He demanded that the local king (Ratan Singh) show him Padmini... or else he would destroy the Palace. To avoid a calamity, Padmini agreed to be seen by Ala-ud-din.. on the condition that he not look at her directly... but only see her in a mirror.

So it came to pass that Ala-ud-din was allowed to stand in a palace room and look into a mirror to see the Queen standing by the lake. (Today, we saw the room and the mirror). Ala-ud-din was captivated by the beauty of the Queen... and even more determined to take Padmini to be his wife. As Ratan Singh escorted Ala-ud-din from the Palace, the invading king captured the local king... and held him to ransom... to be released only upon Padmini being given to him.

(This is a complicated sorry... are you with me so far?)

When news of the hostage and ransom reached the Palace, Padmini formed a plan. She dressed up 300 soldiers in ladies' clothing to appear to be maid servants to the Queen. The king's brother dressed up to appear to be Padmini. They meakly progressed outside the Palace and asked to see Ratan Singh before leaving with Ala-ud-din... a request that was granted. Once in the presence of Ratan Singh, the soldiers threw off their disguise... rescued Ratan Singh and fought their way back into the castle.

Now here is the sad part. The Ala-ud-din attacked the Palace and burned it to the ground. In the ensuing fire... the beautiful queen was killed.

I'm not sure what lessons in ethics can be gained from this operatic tragedy... the best that comes to mind is... don't be beautiful... it causes problems.

Incredible India - Incredible Guide

We are nearing the end of our Incredible India tour... and still, each day is saturating us with new people, smells, sounds and taste. This morning we are staying in a small 17th century fort in a small agricultural village... some 60 klms south of Jaipur.

We awakened to find ourselves surrounded by temples... one is traditional Hindi... one is of the Jain faith (a sect of Hindi)... and one is of the Sikh faith. The Muslims started the day at 5:50 with the call to prayer... but on the hour they were silent in their prayers... leaving the airwaves free for the Hindi worshippers. I have been surprised at the level of enthusiasm displayed in Hindi worship... today, it was the three temples having a shout-out to have their chants heard above the others.

The Sikhs are at a disadvantage... there are no Sikh worshippers living in the village. However, the village is very important to the Sikhs because one of their nine prophets wrote some holy text while in the village... and the Jaipur Sikhs have built a temple to commemorate the event. This temple is used by Pilgrims and travellers... under the guidance of an 80 year old priest... with one of the finest faces you could hope to see... uncut hair and beard... aging lines bringing character to his face... hinting at the wisdom he has accumulated in his long life.

It is now 7:45 am and all the worshipping has completed... peace! The men are bringing their herds of goats out of the enclosure to be taken to pasture... the same routine followed every day. On bright sunny warm days like today, the shepherd's life has some appeal. When scorching hot... or cold and raining... the romance would quickly fade. We have seen shepherds watching their herd of goats... along the roadway... leaning on their staff and talking into their mobile phone... progress unfolds in unexpected steps. Motorbikes and mobile phones are the technologies having most impact in the villages.

Our Peregrine guide is a mystery. He shares ownership with his brother in a farm of 100 hectares in Rajasthan. He went to a good school and seems to be part of a network amongst the wealthy and privileged... he probably belongs to a top rating caste... we have seen a couple of people attempt to touch his feet... as a form of greeting. At each location we have visited, our guide is welcomed by the hotel owners as a long-lost brother... I suspect he is related to half of them. I suspect he has designed the tour format we are following... and taken it to Peregrine as some type of franchised business opportunity... who knows. He has no difficulty in dealing with conflicting requests from his bus load of tourists... he clearly has a background where his instructions are obeyed... and his tour group is used to doing what they are told... with some notable exceptions.

Our guide maintains our affections by giving us food treats during the days of long drives... but more importantly, keeps our spirits high with a liberal supply of rum and coke. Yesterday was a long day for driving... he was topping-up our glasses at 10:30 AM. The combination of alcohol... close proximity of the people on the bus... and some stretches of road with repetitive scenery... has lead to periods of community singing... excessive chattering... and telling tales of heroic deeds. We usually arrive at our next camp without suffering boredom or pains... unaware of the long period of the drive... all very happy. The only cost is a hangover in the evenings after our long journey.

Bus dynamics are always interesting. We have the essential 'princess' who is always last on the bus... who needs the best seat so that she can stretch out her sore leg... who keeps us waiting at every check point. From experience, we have learned that every group must have a princess... and this knowledge helps reduce the frustration level. Our leader has been saintly in providing the extra attention demanded by our princess. However, after dinner last night, he showed some fraility... in reacting to a criticism from the princess... let's hope he manages to last out one more day. Knowing our leader is struggling to remain saintly in the face of extra demands of the princess somehow makes it easier for the rest of us to handle. I'm sure we have all been much more companionable with each other as a method of coping with the princess.

Update
We have arrived back at Delhi at the completion of the tour... we have a final dinner tonight... where we will all promise to stay in touch... and have a reunion in 12 months time... you have all been through similar shows of group love and affection. No one remembers to set the date or location of the reunion... and the good intentions become overwhelmed with the complexities of our daily lives. Perhaps this group will follow through... our Surrey Walking Ladies group kept faith with a most enjoyable reunion.

This tour has been magnificent... primarily because of the opportunity to see village life at such short distance. This last 14 days have thrown up such wonderful stories... that we must share before they are forgotten.

Incredible India - Opium and the Vishnois Tribe

Today, we had a Jeep safari... riding out from Jodhpor... to visit some hamlets... and meet some of the colourful people in the region. The Jeep was of WWII heritage... plenty of play in the steerage... clutch was no substitute for crunching the gears... and the horn had to be 'hot wired' each time you wanted to give verbal communication to other drivers... we didn't make much use of the horn.

The morning was full of interest... we visited a Muslim family who specialised in pottery... and our final stop was at a family of rug weavers... more importantly, the householder has organised a cooperative of cottages by providing the marketing and export expertise for home weaved rugs. But the most intriguing stop was at a compound run by Vishnois people... who consume a drink based on Opium.

The government allows this ethnic group to continue their customs of drinking Opium. It is consumed only by the men... and addiction is a problem. Upon arrival, we were struck by the tidyness of the compound... it had all been recently swept... no dogs or cows hanging around... all the rubbish piled up out of sight. The family consisted of the landowner and wife, two sons and their wives. While we were there, the daughters-in-law were doing all the work. This tribe is noted for protecting their land... allowing no hunting or tree cutting... they are vegetarian... and make meals from the seeds of acacia trees and other available legumes.

The householder came out with his Opium drinking gear... laid out a mat and started a ritual to bless the equipment. The Opium is purchased in a satchel... soaked in water... and filtered through cotton cloth. The householder rinsed his hands with water... then poured the mixture into his cupped hand. Our guide and the other driver then sipped the drink from the owner's hand... while holding one hand above their head. The unusual ritual displays respect for the householder.

We were then invited to cup our hand... into which the owner poured some drink... I guess he knew from previous experience that not many tourists would risk the health exposure of drinking from his hand... we had not washed our own hand... so the less risky format still gave bacteria an easy ride to the stomach. We were told by nurses in our group that the Opium concentration offered to us... and taking the substance into the stomach... meant that very little opiate would enter our bloodstream.

After our token sip, the locals got stuck into more serious consumption. Those drinking included both our drivers... a circumstance that did not escape the notice of our group. When the householder wanted a drink, our driver would rinse his hands and provide the owner with his hand for a cup. The owner had the appearance of someone who had engaged in this practice quite often. The trio took another satchel and drank another serving.

At our final stop (at the rug weaver), our guide (who was driving for today) had a snooze in the shade... and set his phone alarm for 20 minutes... so was on his feet at the time of our departure. We all jumped into the Jeep and headed back to town. Our driver turned on the radio so we could hear some Hindi music... but the volume was too loud. The volume dial was located in the glove box... and the glove box was locked. Our driver forgot he was driving... pulled the keys of of the ignition... to unlock the glove box... who would have thought? In focusing on the glove box, he took his eye off the road... and sent us heading towards the gutter! We screeched to a stop... as much as an old Jeep can screech ... and looked at the surprised expression on the face of our driver. Our unflappable friend completed the task of adjusting the volume of the radio... and checked with us that the volume was to our liking... before recommencing of journey back into town.

We were all relieved to arrive safely back in the hotel.

Just a word of advice from experience. Next time you are visiting an Opium den... ask your driver to avoid supping from the second satchel... and don't let him take the keys of of the ignition while the vehicle is in motion... even if the volume control of the radio is locked inside the glove box.