Today, we did Fontainebleau Châteaux with Ann and Doug... the sun was shining... the wind abated... a perfect day for seeing one of the major tourist attractions of Europe. "What about Versailles", I can hear you ask. In terms of size and lavishness, Fontainebleau does not compete... in terms of celebrity glitter, it's way behind. But in terms of where royalty (including emperors) preferred to live, Fontainebleau wins hands down.
Our friend Barry explained the difference between the two venues... Versailles has kitch... Fontainebleau has soul. Even Napoleon I, who didn't mind the celebrity lifestyle liked Fontainebleau for living and Rambouillet for relaxing... no time for Versailles... and who can argue with a man of impeccable taste?
Napoleon certainly made his mark on Fontainebleau... but was sensible enough to leave the marks made by many of his predecessors... the place 'reeks' of history. The older château on this site was already used in the latter part of the 12th century by King Louis VII, for whom Thomas Becket consecrated the chapel.
Fontainebleau was a favourite residence of Philip Augustus (Philip II) and Louis IX. The creator of the present edifice was Francis I. His building efforts still existing today as the Gallery of Francis I... with its frescoes framed in stucco... built between 1522 and 1540... and was the first great decorated gallery built in France. Versailles can't match that for history!
Napoleon left lots of decoration in various rooms.. typically featuring his beloved "bees and beehive" motifs. There is a long gallery featuring portraits of the family members he appointed Kings and Queens to various principalities. Eventually, he regretted being so generous in elevating his relatives from the obscurity of Corsica. In his resignation as Emporer, he commented that as soon as he titled one of his relatives a king or a queen, they immediately commenced working to reduce their dependancy on him. He could no longer count on their support in conflicts. Still, to rule a region as big as Europe, he needed some form of governance... and nepotism was the fastest one to implement.
Broadly speaking, at Fontainebleau the Renaissance was introduced to France. Another great hall at Fontainebleau is the Salle des Fates... built in the reign of Henry II, and decorated by the Italian Mannerist painters.
Some interesting facts coming from today's visit!
First, it was the practice of French royalty for the Queen to give birth as a public performance... not for everyone... just those of acceptable social status. The objective was to ensure no slight of hand in producing heirs to the throne. Without the benefits of modern blood tests, it befell noblemen to study the Queen at birth and see the heir actually emerge. You can't be too careful when it comes to maintaining the proper blood lines.
Second, the queen's boudoir was also a public place. For many years, the Queen had an area immediately surrounding the bed fenced off. That was done away with for a couple of decades... but was introduced during the periods of the emperors.
Third, Napoleon liked many of the formalities of the military. One he retained at Fontainebleau was to receive audiences while he bathed. Tony Abbott could well introduce this practice in Australia... to get a better pay-off for the investment he has made in maintaining a good physique.
The richness and splendor of Fontainebleau, again brings to question the resources foregone... by going overboard with regal riches. Ostentatious displays of riches undoubtedly was effective in influencing colleagues and intimidating opponents. But what other advances would have been possible if the manpower employed in Fontainebleau was applied to other dimensions of nation building?
Such beautiful photos
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