We have been in Delhi for 24 hours... so feel unable to offer any insights into the confusing mass of humanity we see outside the hotel window. I'm sure the locals, familiar with the customs, can see order and structure in the street activity. They can identify the different castes... know who has right-of-way... know when to take risks... know when to stop for a chat... and where you can trust the street food. Hopefully, we will acquire those skills and interpret what is happening on the street.
Our hotel is away from the tourist area of Delhi... right next to a busy street market specialising in garments of all types... for locals who do not have high income. Winter is approaching... and the fastest moving sales items are jackets. A couple of traders have had bus boxes of jackets placed on the street... cut them open... so the locals can rifle through the pile to find the item that best suits them. The quality would not be to your liking... but the prices are very low. At the other end of the price spectrum... you can acquire the garb of a maharishi... gold braiding enough to make you blind... epaulettes to make a weakling have shoulders like a wrestler... just the thing to make you stand out from the crowd next time you are shopping at Chastwood Chase.
From what we have seen to date, Delhi is a male dominated society. Driving in from the airport yesterday, we saw no female drivers... and next to no female passengers. We were pleased with our decision to forego the pleasures of driving in India... the roads are more chaotic than Rome... but somehow, less terrifying. Most of the vehicles were old enough to vote... but newer vehicles displayed dent-free duco... amazing but true.
The fastest lane of motor traffic was the footpath... at one point there were lane markings on the road... we counted 4 lanes... and at that time the cars were 8 abreast.
At first, we interpreted the incessant honking of horns as displays of frustration. But I'm sure the trained ear can interpret more meaning from the cacophony. Many of the honks are saying, "be aware that I'm moving into your personal space". We also heard one short toot that was saying, "Thank you" for creating space. We saw people using the footings of bridge pylons as beds... with cars on the lower roads honking away only inches from their head. We saw the side of the road being used as one continuous public toilet. We saw street vendors offering many types of goods for purchase... and our driver quickly locking the doors upon their first appearance. This is one aspect of India... not its most glamorous... but an aspect not to be missed... a picture of people living with poor infrastructure... yet, getting on with their lives... managing to find things to smile about... showing respect and tolerance for each other.
Walking through the markets... the safest place was down the middle of the street. The sidewalk was full of holes to provide permanent access to utility services... and blocked by vendors who thought it unnecessary to acquire a shop from which to run their business. Those who did invest in real shops all thought it necessary to employ a guard for their premises... usually, a man of such small size that he was most useful in opening the door for possible purchasers... the guard is probably a family relative who is having difficulty in finding alternative employment. The person who looks most unhappy is usually the business owner. Our experience was that sales staff were courteous and helpful. When we had decided upon a purchase, we were directed to the owner to make the payment. This person invariably portrayed the air of someone who was terribly busy... too busy to be interrupted by a nuisance customer wanting to make a payment. I guess that a proprietor would hate to be seen by his neighbouring trader to be over-kean in collecting money.... it may appear to be a sign of desperation... and once seen as desperate, you lose negotiating power. I suspect it takes years of practice to perfect such an indolent air.
We have had our briefing for the 14-day tour. The guide looks to be good... a critical component for happy group tours.
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